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At theSWITCHBLADE.com The Knife Guy specializes in the sales and delivery of automatic knives switchblade knives switchblades Italian stiletto swing guards Italian swinguard stilettos Italian picklocks pick lock switchblades dual action automatics hidden release switchblade front openers front opening knives OTF out the front daggers covert automatics custom handmade automatics push button knives spring loaded knives lever lock automatic switchblade knives.
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SWITCHBLADE TERMS INFORMATION
GLOSSARY
Switchblade (side
opening & front opening - OTF): A pocketknife having a
spring-operated blade that opens instantly when a release on the
handle is pressed. Also called switchblade knife,
switch knife, automatic knife, stiletto, picklock, swing guard
knife, front opener (OTF out-the front), front opening knife (OTF
out-the-front), lever lock, spring knife, push button knife,
one-handed knife, dual action knife, scale release, bolster
release.
Automatic knife
(side opening & front opening - OTF): A pocketknife having a
spring-operated blade that opens instantly when a release on the
handle is pressed. Also called switchblade knife,
switch knife.
Switchblade
knife (side opening & front opening - OTF): a pocketknife with a
spring-operated blade [syn: switchblade].
Italian Style
Stiletto (side opening): Italian, diminutive of stilo stylus, dagger, from
Latin stilus stylus -:
a slender side opening dagger with a blade thick in proportion to
its breadth; distinguishable by it's swivelling bolster (hand
guard) that lifts the spring lock off the blade post with a
clockwise turn of the bolster; - as opposed to the "picklock"
which you have to pick the spring lock off the blade post with
your fingers.
Picklock (side
opening): Same as
the Italian style stiletto with the exception of the swivelling
bolster (hand guard) - picklocks have a wider tab on the spring
end for easier gripping of the spring for lifting the spring lock
off the blade post with the fingers - thus the name "Picklock"
meaning you have to actually pick up on the lock
manually.
Swing guard (floating guard) knife (side opening): Side opening knife which has a
hand guard attached to the blade that swings (floats) with the
blade. Guard folds down against the handle, out of the way, when
blade is closed. Guard folds out perpendicular to blade and
handle when blade is open, creating a guard between blade and
handle.
Dual action
automatic (side opening): A pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that opens
instantly when a release on the handle is pressed and also is
capable of being opened manually as well.
Covert automatics
(side opening): A
pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that opens instantly
when a hidden (not easily found or recognized as a release
mechanism) release is activated and also is capable of being
opened manually as well.
Front opening - OTF
(out the front) automatic: A pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that comes
straight out the front of the handle (as opposed to swinging open
from the side) that opens instantly when a release on the handle
is pressed. Manual recharging (cocking) of the blade on single
action OTF's.
Dual action front
opening - OTF (out-the-front) automatic: Same as front opening - OTF
(out-the-front) automatic except that the release on the handle
will retract the blade automatically as well, as opposed to the
manual recharging (cocking) of the blade to the closed
position.
Lever lock
automatics (side opening): A pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that opens
instantly when a release lever (as opposed to a button) on the
handle is pressed.
Scale release
automatics (side opening): A pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that opens
instantly when a scale (handle half) is slid to 1 side.
Bolster release
automatics (side opening): A pocketknife having a spring-operated blade that opens
instantly when a bolster (metal piece between the handle and
blade) is slid to 1 side.
Italian Style Stiletto Blade
Types
Standard: Highly reflective mirror-like finish. This
blade is used to cut and it is not razor edge. This is the most
common type of blade.
Bayonet: Highly reflective mirror-like finish. This
is the blade with the back edge ground to a near edge
approximately 42% of the blades overall length (from the tip
rearward)
Dagger: This is a full double edge blade.
However, the back edge is not sharpened.
Kris: This is a blade to collect. An injury of
a kris blade cicatrizes with more difficulty. It's shape
resembles a snake.
Damascus (standard, bayonet, dagger, kris):
Damascus steel is formed with hundreds of layers of iron and
steel that are forged together to produce a high carbon (or
stainless) blade with distinctively individual patterns. The art
of damascus steel making goes back thousands of years.
Blade Steel
The Steel FAQ's by
Joe Talmadge
One thing to keep in
mind is that there's more to knife performance than the steel.
The blade profile is also important (a tanto format isn't the
best choice to skin a deer, for example). But perhaps most
important is the heat treatment. A good solid heat treatment on a
lesser steel will often result in a blade that outperforms a
better steel with inferior heat treatment. Bad heat treatment can
cause a stainless steel to lose some of its stainless properties,
or cause a tough steel to become brittle, etc. Unfortunately, of
the three most important properties (blade profile, steel type,
heat treatment), heat treatment is the one that is impossible to
assess by eye, and as a result excessive attention is sometimes
paid to the other two.
Remember also to keep your particular application in mind. 440A
is often scoffed at, but I'd rather have my salt water dive knife
made of 440A than L-6. Properly heat treated 5160 is wonderfully
tough, but if my application is skinning deer, I'm probably more
interested in edge holding ala 52100. And on and on.
Steel Alloys: At its most simple, steel is iron with carbon in
it. Other alloys are added to make the steel perform differently.
Here are the important steel alloys in alphabetical order, and
some sample steels that contain those alloys:
Carbon: Present in all steels, it is the most important hardening
element. Also increases the strength of the steel. We usually
want knife-grade steel to have >.5% carbon, which makes it
"high-carbon" steel. Chromium: Added for wear resistance,
hardenability, and (most importantly) for corrosion resistance. A
steel with at least 13% chromium is deemed "stainless" steel.
Despite the name, all steel can rust if not maintained properly.
Manganese: An important element, manganese aids the grain
structure, and contributes to hardenability. Also strength &
wear resistance. Improves the steel (e.g., deoxidizes) during the
steel's manufacturing (hot working and rolling). Present in most
cutlery steel except for A-2, L-6, and CPM 420V. Molybdenum: A
carbide former, prevents brittleness & maintains the steel's
strength at high temperatures. Present in many steels, and
air-hardening steels (e.g., A-2, ATS-34) always have 1% or more
molybdenum -- molybdenum is what gives those steels the ability
to harden in air. Nickel: Used for strength, corrosion
resistance, and toughness. Present in L-6 and AUS-6 and AUS-8.
Silicon: Contributes to strength. Like manganese, it makes the
steel more sound while it's being manufactured. Tungsten:
Increases wear resistance. When combined properly with chromium
or molybdenum, tungsten will make the steel to be a high-speed
steel. The high-speed steel M-2 has a high amount of tungsten.
Vanadium: Contributes to wear resistance and hardenability. A
carbide former that helps produce fine-grained steel. A number of
steels have vanadium, but M-2, Vascowear, and CPM T440V and 420V
(in order of increasing amounts) have high amounts of vanadium.
BG-42's biggest difference with ATS-34 is the addition of
vanadium.
CARBON and alloy
steels (non-stainless steels):
These steels are
the steels most often forged. Stainless steels can be forged
(guys like Sean McWilliams do forge stainless), but it is very
difficult. In addition, carbon steels can be differentially
tempered, to give a hard edge-holding edge and a tough springy
back. Stainless steels are not differentially tempered. Of
course, carbon steels will rust faster than stainless steels, to
varying degrees. Carbon steels are also often a little bit less
of a crap shoot than stainless steels -- I believe all the steels
named below are fine performers when heat treated properly.
In the AISI steel designation system, 10xx is carbon steel, any
other steels are alloy steels. For example, the 50xx series are
chromium steels.
In the SAE designation system, steels with letter designations
(e.g., W-2, A-2) are tool steels.
There is an ASM classification system as well, but it isn't seen
often in the discussion of cutlery steels, so I'll ignore it for
now.
Often, the last numbers in the name of a steel are fairly close
to the steel's carbon content. So 1095 is ~.95% carbon. 52100 is
~1.0% carbon. 5160 is ~.60% carbon.
O-1 - This is a steel very popular with forgers, as it has the
reputation for being "forgiving". It is an excellent steel, that
takes and holds an edge superbly, and is very tough. It rusts
easily, however. Randall Knives uses O-1, so does Mad Dog.
W-2 - Reasonably tough and holds an edge well, due to its .2%
vanadium content. Most files are made from W-1, which is the same
as W-2 except for the vanadium content (W-1 has no vanadium).
The 10-series -- 1095 (and 1084, 1070, 1060, 1050, etc.) - Many
of the 10-series steels for cutlery, though 1095 is the most
popular for knives. When you go in order from 1095-1050, you
generally go from more carbon to less, from better edge holding
to less edge holding, and tough to tougher to toughest. As such,
you'll see 1060 and 1050, used often for swords. For knives, 1095
is sort of the "standard" carbon steel, not too expensive and
performs well. It is reasonably tough and holds an edge very
well. It rusts easily. This is a simple steel, which contains
only two alloying elements: .95% carbon and .4% manganese. The
various kabars are usually 1095 with a black coating.
Carbon V - Carbon V is a trademarked term by Cold Steel, and as
such is not necessarily one particular kind of steel; rather, it
describes whatever steel Cold Steel happens to be using, and
there is an indication they do change steels from time to time.
Carbon V performs roughly between 1095-ish and O-1-ish, in my
opinion, and rusts like O-1 as well. I've heard rumors that
Carbon V is O-1 (which I now think is unlikely) or 1095. Numerous
industry insiders insist it is 0170-6. Some spark tests done by a
rec.knives reader seem to point the finger at 50100-B. Since
50100-B and 0170-6 are the same steel (see below), this is likely
the current Carbon V.
0170-6 & 50100-B - These are different designations for the
same steel: 0170-6 is the steel makers classification, 50100-B is
the AISI designation. A good chrome-vanadium steel that is
somewhat similar to O-1, but much less expensive. The now-defunct
Blackjack made several knives from O170-6, and Carbon V may be
0170-6. 50100 is basically 52100 with about 1/3 the chromium of
52100, and the B in 50100-B indicates that the steel has been
modified with vanadium, making this a chrome-vanadium steel.
A-2 - An excellent air-hardening tool steel, it is known for its
great toughness and good edge holding. As an air-hardening steel,
so don't expect it to be differentially tempered. Its outstanding
toughness makes it a frequent choice for combat knives. Chris
Reeve and Phil Hartsfield both use A-2, and Blackjack made a few
models from A-2.
L-6 - A band saw steel that is very tough and holds an edge well,
but rusts easily. It is, like O-1, a forgiving steel for the
forger. If you're willing to put up with the maintenance, this
may be one of the very best steels available for cutlery,
especially where toughness is desired.
M-2 - A "high-speed steel", it can hold its temper even at very
high temperatures, and as such is used in industry for high-heat
cutting jobs. It is an excellent edge holder. It is tough but not
as tough as some of the toughest steels in this section; however,
it will still be tougher than the stainless steels and hold an
edge better. It rusts easily. Benchmade has started using M-2 in
one of their AFCK variations.
5160 - A steel popular with forgers, it is extremely popular now
and a very high-end steel. It is essentially a simple spring
steel with chromium added for hardenability. It has good edge
holding, but is known especially for its outstanding toughness
(like L-6). Often used for swords (hardened in the low 50s Rc)
because of its toughness, and is also used for hard use knives
(hardened up near the 60s Rc).
52100 - A ball-bearing steel, and as such is only used by
forgers. It is similar to 5160 (though it has around 1% carbon
vs. 5160 ~.60%), but holds an edge better. It is less tough than
5160 however. It is used often for hunting knives and other
knives where the user is willing to trade off a little of 5160's
toughness for better edge holding.
D-2 - D-2 is sometimes called a "semi-stainless". It has a fairly
high chrome content (12%), but not high enough to classify it as
stainless. It is more stain resistant than the carbon steels
mentioned above, however. It has excellent edge holding, but may
be a little less tough than some of the steels mentioned above.
And it does not take a beautiful finish. Bob Dozier uses D-2.
Vascowear - A very hard-to-find steel, with a high vanadium
content. It is extremely difficult to work and very
wear-resistant. It is out of production.
"STAINLESS"
Steels:
Remember that all
steels can rust. But the following steels, by virtue of their
> 13% chromium, have much more rust resistance than the above
steels. I should point out that there doesn't appear to be
consensus on what percent of chromium is needed for a steel to be
considered stainless. In the cutlery industry, the de-facto
standard is 13%, but the ASM Metals Handbooks says "greater than
10%", and other books cite other numbers. In addition, the
alloying elements have a strong influence on the amount of
chromium needed; lower chromium with the right alloying elements
can still have "stainless" performance.
420 - Lower carbon content (<.5%) than the 440 series makes
this steel extremely soft, and it doesn't hold an edge well. It
is used often for diving knives, as it is extremely stain
resistant. Also used often for very inexpensive knives. Outside
salt water use, it is too soft to be a good choice for a utility
knife.
440 A & 440 B & 440C - The carbon content (and
hardenability) of this stainless steel goes up in order from A
(.75%) to B (.9%) to C (1.2%). 440C is an excellent, high-end
stainless steel, usually hardened to around 56-58 Rc. All three
resist rust well, with 440A being the most rust resistant, and
440C the least. The SOG Seal 2000 is 440A, and Randall uses 440B
for their stainless knives. 440C is fairly ubiquitous, and is
generally considered the penultimate general-use stainless (with
ATS-34 being the ultimate). If your knife is marked with just
"440", it is probably the less expensive 440A; if a manufacturer
had used the more expensive 440C, he'd want to advertise that.
The general feeling is that 440A (and similar steels, see below)
is just good enough for everyday use, especially with a good heat
treat (we've heard good reports on SOG's 440A heat treat). 440-B
is a very solid performer and 440-C is excellent.
425M & 12C27 - Both are very similar to 440A. 425M (.5%
carbon) is used by Buck knives. 12C27 (.6% carbon) is a
Scandanavian steel used often in Finish puukkos and Norwegian
knives.
AUS-6 & AUS-8 & AUS-10 - (aka 6A 8A 10A) - Japanese
stainless steels, roughly comparable to 440A (AUS-6, .65% carbon)
and 440B (AUS-8, .75% carbon) and 440C (AUS-10, 1.1% carbon).
AUS-6 is used by Al Mar. Cold Steel's use of AUS-8 has made it
pretty popular, as heat treated by CS it won't hold an edge like
ATS-34, but is a bit softer and may be a bit tougher. AUS-10 has
roughly the same carbon content as 440C but with slightly less
chromium, so it should be a bit less rust resistant but perhaps a
bit tougher than 440C. All 3 steels have some vanadium added
(which the 440 series lacks), which will improve wear
resistance.
GIN-1 - aka G-2 A steel with slightly less carbon, slightly more
chromium, and much less moly than ATS-34, it is used often by
Spyderco. A very good stainless steel.
ATS-34 & 154-CM - The hottest high-end stainless right now.
154-CM is the original American version, but for a long time was
not manufactured to the high quality standards knifemakers
expect, and so is not used often anymore. Late-breaking news is
that high-quality 154-CM may again be available. ATS-34 is a
Hitachi product that is very, very similar to 154-CM, and is the
premier high quality stainless. Normally hardened to around 60
Rc, it holds an edge very well and is tough enough even at that
high hardness. Not quite as rust resistant as the 400 series
above. Many custom makers use ATS-34, and Spyderco (in their
high-end knives) and Benchmade are among the production companies
that use it.
ATS-55 - Similar to ATS-34, but with the moly removed and some
other elements added. Not much is known about this steel yet, but
it looks like the intent was to get ATS-34 edge-holding with
increased toughness. Since moly is an expensive element useful
for high-speed steels, and knife blades do not need to be high
speed, removing the moly hopefully drastically decreases the
price of the steel while at least retaining ATS-34's performance.
Spyderco is using this steel.
BG-42 - Bob Loveless announced recently that he's switching from
ATS-34 to this steel. Keep an eye out for it, it's bound to catch
on. BG-42 is somewhat similar to ATS-34, with two major
differences: It has twice as much manganese as ATS-34, and has
1.2% vanadium (ATS-34 has no vanadium), so look for even better
edge-holding than ATS-34. Chris Reeves has switched from ATS-34
to BG-42 in his Sebenzas.
CPM T440V & CPM T420V - Two steels that hold an edge superbly
(better than ATS-34), but it's difficult to get the edge there in
the first place. These steels are both high in vanadium. Spyderco
offers at least one model in CPM T440V. Custom maker Sean
McWilliams is a big fan of 440V, which he forges. Depending on
heat treatment, expect to have to work a bit harder to sharpen
these steels -- also, don't expect ATS-34 type toughness. 420V is
CPM's follow-on to 440V, and with less chromium and almost double
the vanadium, is more wear-resistant and may be tougher than
440V.
400 Series Stainless - Before Cold Steel switched to AUS-8, many
of their stainless products were marketed as being of "400 Series
Stainless". Other knife companies are beginning to use the same
term. What exactly *is* 400 Series Stainless? I always imagined
it was 440-A, but there's nothing to keep a company from using
any 4xx steel, like 420 or 425M, and calling it 400 Series
Stainless.
NON-STEELS USED BY
KNIFEMAKERS
Cobalt - Stellite
6K A flexible material with very good wear resistance, it is
practically corrosion resistant. Stellite 6K, sometimes seen in
knives, is a cobalt alloy. David Boye uses cobalt for his dive
knives.
Titanium - Newer titanium alloys can be hardened near 50 Rc, and
at that hardness seem to take something approaching a useful
edge. It is extremely rust-resistant, and is non-magnetic.
Popular as expensive dive knives these days, because the SEALs
use it as their knife when working around magnetic-detonated
mines. Mission knives uses titanium. Tygrys makes a knife with a
steel edge sandwiched by titanium.
Closing a
Picklock
Lift (pick) spring tab (lock)
off blade post manually
Closing an Italian Style
Stiletto
Push button side guard
clock-wise and downward
Opening the Covert (hidden
release) Automatics
Case XX
Mini Copperlock Dual Action
Press "C" end of shield for
spring action on Case Mini Copperlock
Colt M-16 Dual Action
Press lower end of upper
insert for spring action on Colt M-16
Smith & Wesson (S.W.A.T.)
Single Action
Press upper end of upper
insert for spring action on Smith & Wesson (S.W.A.T.)
Timberline/Vallotton Dual
Action
Slide top handle away from
blade for spring action on Timberline/Vallotton
Al Mar/Vallotton Dual
Action
Slide top handle away from
blade for spring action on Al Mar/Vallotton SERE 2000
Delta Z/ Vallotton Dual
Action
Slide top handle away from
blade for spring action on Delta Z/Vallotton
Emerson/Vallotton Dual
Action
Slide top handle away from
blade for spring action on Emerson/Vallotton
Scale Release Single
Action
Slide lower end of top handle
toward blade for spring action on most automatic only scale
release knives
Silk Slipper Dual
Action
Slide top handle away from
blade for spring action on Butch Vallotton's Silk
Slipper
Microtech Lightfoot (LCC) Dual
Action
Slide bolster away from blade
for spring action on Microtech's Lightfoot
ProTech Harkins ATAC Dual Action
Press lower end of upper insert for spring action on ProTech Harkins ATAC
Email:
Rick@theSWITCHBLADE.com
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STILETTOS AUTOMATIC KNIVES
MICROTECH SIDE OPENING
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech UMS
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Mini UDT
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech UDT
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech L-UDT
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Mini SOCOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech SOCOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech SOCOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Terzuola
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech LCC
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Hawk
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Vector
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Kestral
(Mini Hawk) AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Amphibian
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Damascus
Blade AUTOMATIC KNIVES
MICROTECH OTF (out the
front) AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Makora Dual
Action OTF AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech QD Scarab
Dual Action OTF AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Ultratech
Dual Action OTF AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech C.F.O. OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech H.A.L.O. OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Combat Talon
OTF AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Exodus OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Nemesis OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Microtech Custom OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
PARAGON AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
PIRANHA AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
Piranha California
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Piranha Model 1
Fingerling AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Piranha Model 2
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Piranha Amazon
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
FRANK POTTER CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
PROTECH AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
ProTech Godson
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Godfather
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech OTF (out the
front) AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Runt AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
ProTech Sidekick
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Stinger
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Duke AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
ProTech Magic
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Tactical
Response 1 AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Tactical
Response 2 AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Tactical
Response 3 AUTOMATIC KNIVES
ProTech Custom
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
DARREL RALPH CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
RALPH / WILSON
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
FRANK RECUPERO CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
LCR - LEE REYNOLDS
CUSTOM AUTOMATIC KNIVES
JOHN RICHTER CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
RUGER AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
SMITH & WESSON
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
T bar K (Tank Fisher)
CUSTOM AUTOMATIC KNIVES
TIMBERLINE / VALLOTTON
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
TI NIVES (Scott Self)
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
BUTCH VALLOTTON CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
V & D (Vallotton &
Diskin) AUTOMATIC KNIVES
RAINY VALLOTTON CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
GERRY VESSELLA CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
WOODARD AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
Woodard Pocket Pro
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Woodard
Fer De Lance AUTOMATIC KNIVES
"Z" McCARTY CUSTOM
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
CUSTOM STILETTOS/PICKLOCKS
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
SWING GUARDS AUTOMATIC
KNIVES
LEFT HANDED/
AMBIDEXTROUS AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Left Handed Users
CALIFORNIA LEGAL
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
DUAL ACTION SIDE
OPENING AUTOMATIC KNIVES
OTF - OUT THE FRONT
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
DUAL ACTION OTF
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Automatic in and out
SCALE RELEASE
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
BOLSTER RELEASE
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
LATCH RELEASE
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
COVERT / STEALTH
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
LEVER LOCK
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
FISH PICKLOCK
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
CUSTOM SWITCHBLADE
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
DAMASCUS BLADES
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
MULTI - BLADE
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
USED SWITCHBLADES
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
Used but not abused - like new knives
INK PEN KNIVES
AUTOMATIC KNIVES
REPLACEMENT SPRINGS
FOR AUTOMATIC KNIVES
CUSTOM PRESENTATION
BOXES
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Automatic Knife Switchblade Knives Information and Switchblades Term Glossary:
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